A beautiful example of young McLaren Vale Shiraz, this was grown by the Hunt family (one Tim) and made by the ace local winesmith, Tim Geddes, making two. The aroma starts with pretty musk and facepowder confections, then oozes more deep and soulful base tones. In that sense it's a complex reminder of days gone by, unfolding wafts of blueberry pie in grandma's woodfire oven, dark charcuterie meats and cosy old leather armchair. But it's not all mellow: there's also a top note of summer dust to tickle and tease the nostrils, triggering urgent thirst and hunger. This edgy aspect is the best clue to the flavours to come: it's a more sinuous and appetising drink than all those soothing nostalgic bits of the bouquet would lead you to expect. Sure, the fruits and meats and old smoky kitchen aspects are all in there, but in a racy, snaky form, with a neat long taper of acid, black tea tannins and fresh-split kindling sharpening its plush bits. All that said, it'll be even more alluring in three or four years, when that fruit flesh better envelopes the new oak ... right now, it grows in the same direction if you give it a good sploosh into a decanter, or savour the bottle over a day or three. Bring on the juicy roast with mushrooms, mash and parsnip if you're feeling old-fashioned and homely; tea-smoked duck would be just schmick if you're taking it out and about.